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Maintenance Modifications

Document Quick Jump

• Fretboard Cleaning (Maple)
• Tremolo Arm Rotation (arm is too loose or tight)
• Tremolo - Removing the Trem Quickly (strings still attached)
• Tremolo Arm Holder Maintenance for Stability (wobbly/clunky arm)
• Tremolo Blocking for Detuning ("fixing" the bridge)
• Tremolo Problems - Why Can't I Stay In-tune?
• Tremolo Problems - Using thicker gauge strings with the floating tremolo
• Lo-TRS II - Reducing Bar Play for 555 players
• I've Removed All the Strings and Can't Retune
• Strap Lock / Buttons - tightening loose Stap locks or stripped screws
• USRG Tension Free Neck Adjustment
• Neck Pocket alignment in relation to the bridge
• Back to Tech Section Homepage

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Fretboard Cleaning (Maple)

Maple fretboard can easily show wear and tear by picking up dirt and grime from being played. While many like the "Vintage" look, I much prefer a clean, bright colored maple fretboard. I have cleaned up several maple fretboards and the results have actually amazed those who saw them prior to being cleaned. It is like making a 9 year old fretboard look new again.

While I cannot guarantee this method of cleaning is the safest, best or least damaging, I can verify that it works like a champ. I highly recommend after keeping it clean to wash your hands prior to playing your guitar and wipe the fretboard before and after playing. This will keep your maple board looking great for a while.

Step By Step:
Picture	Dirty fretboard Clean fretboard
Tools Needed	0000 grade steel wool or 3M Sanding Sponges (Fine & Extra Fine) lighter fluid or 100% rubbing alcohol clean cotton rag lots of elbow grease & patience ;-)
Procedure	It is easiest to clean the neck with it removed from the guitar so if you're sanding the back down now is the time to clean the board. Otherwise cover the guitar body and use a padded workbench Clean the fretboard: It is possible to gently coat the fretboard with lighter fluid or rubbing alcohol to loosen up the dirt on the fretboard. Gently rub each fret parallel with the frets and get the dirt loosened up Warning - some say never to proceed further than this step however it is very difficult to clean a dirty maple neck with only solvents such as alcohol or lighter fluid Next I use Sanding Sponges or 0000 grade steel wool & rub gently over & over across the board/grain (parallel with the frets) Clean one fret at a time Rub gently to remove the debris and avoided scratching up or digging into the inlays If using the 3M sponges start with fine and finish with extra fine. Note you can finished the frets by rubbing lightly in a circular motion which left a clean even surface) When finished wipe the frets with lighter fluid or rubbing alcohol When finished cleaning, wipe your fretboard down with a clean rag Let the fretboard air dry
Reference	none

Summary
Maple fretboards take some effort to keep clean however the results of cleaning a dirty maple board can be dramatic. If you want your maple fretboard to look new put aside some spare time and plug away. The results will surprise you.

Tremolo Arm Rotation (too loose or tight)

One great feature of the Ibanez Edge/Lo-Pro Tremolo system is the design of the wammy bar in regard to how it is inserted into the tremolo block. It can be attached and removed without tools and can be adjusted for your personal preference. Some players (like Vai) prefer a sloppy/loose bar that swings around freely, while others prefer a bar to rotate but not swing quite so freely.

Step By Step: Tremolo Arm Rotation
Picture	Edge Tremolo Parts Diagram Edge Lo-Pro Parts Diagram Tremolo Arm & Nylon Washers
Tools Needed	Clear (or other color) nail polish Tweezers, needle-nose pliers or your fingernails - to remove bushings Small flat-blade screwdriver or single edge razor
Procedure	Remove the tremolo arm Remove the two white "nylon washer" bushings Paint a thin layer of nail polish in each groove where the bushings go on the tremolo arm Let dry overnight (put on your amp while playing to quicken the drying process with heat) Put both "nylon washer" bushings back on the arm Insert the tremolo arm in the arm holder socket If the arm is too loose - you didn't put enough clear coat on. Repeeat the steps above to put more clear coat on If the arm is too tight - you put too much clear coat on Remove the bushings Scrape off a bit of the clear polish off with a screwdriver or single edge razor Reinstall the bushing and try again.
Reference	Tremolo arm should easily fit into the arm holder socket without excess force. Arm should be able to rotate 360 degrees.

Summary
Use the tremolo nylon washers (bushings) to adjust the tremolo arm to swing to your preference. Don't bother replacing the two nylon washers unless they're ripped. If your bar moves too easily in the arm holder socket simply use clear nail polish under the bushings to make a tighter seat for the arm so it swivels less freely. This lasts for months and repeat as necessary. You tremolo arm can swing to your preference with minimal fuss.

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User Submitted tip for Lo-TRS II:
by Craig Betteridge

Just reading through the EXCELLENT tech setup pages and thought I would mention another solution to the loose TRS-II trem problem. Instead of using the nail polish, which is a temporary solution, I have used a "Matrix Band", which is a strip of very thin metal used by dentists to place around the tooth before applying a filling. (who would have thought a trip to the dentist had anything to do with playing the guitar!). All you have to do is cut the band (to about a third of its length), and place it on the inside of the tremolo barrel. Because it is fairly springy it will automatically mould itself to roughly a circular shape, allowing the arm to just slide in as normal. These bands come in 2 different thicknesses so you should be able to get one of them to suit the feel you like. (and chances are your dentist will just give you one, they cant cost more than a couple of cents each).

Removing the Tremolo (with strings still attached)

You will find yourself in a nighmare situation if you remove all the strings of a JEM/UV guitar at once due to the floating bridge. For this reason you should be aware of a time saving trick... removing the tremolo bridge with the strings attached. This can save you hours of your time.

Practical applications are to correct a wiring problem, neck or body cleaning or to do simple repairs that require the strings off for a few minutes.

Step By Step: Remove Tremolo with Strings Still Attached
Picture	none
Tools Needed	Small Phillips-head screwdriver - for truss rod & tremolo lock down screw Needle nose pliers (or strong fingers) - to remove the tremolo claw springs.
Procedure	Tighten the three locking nut bolts Remove the tremolo bridge from the studs Insert a shop rag under the tremolo to protect the tremolo cavity paint Turn the guitar upside down & remove the rear tremolo cover by unscrewing the six rear tremolo cover screws Remove the lock down bar by removing the two tremolo lock down screws Carefully remove the three tremolo claw springs first from the block, then from the claw. Turn the guitar right side up, holding the trem from falling out. Remove the tremolo off the posts - gently pull the tremolo away from the neck and thus the tremolo off the studs. Place the tremolo on the workbench (bed, etc..) off to the side To reinstall the tremolo Reattach the tremolo on the posts Flip the guitar and attach the tremolo springs Retune to pitch
Reference	none

Summary
This trick will save you lots of time. Not for those afraid of a screwdriver but afe and effective nonetheless.

Tremolo Arm Holder Maintenance for Stability

The Edge Tremolo Arm Holder is the socket that connects the tremolo arm to the block (see diagram). This is a replaceable part that enables your Edge or Lo-Pro to work forever, however certain maintenance is required. Often the Tremolo Arm Holder loosens and the holder rotates, allowing the bar to swing freely and worse yet make klunking noises if the bar is fluttered (quickly depressed and released). Luckily a remedy for this is very quick and easily. One recommendation is to buy the 5/16" flat-head screwdriver to avoid scraping up the tremolo or worse yet the guitar body if you slip. These are often found in Sears hardware clearance bins for $0.99. Get the shortest handled 5/16" flat screwdriver available.

Step By Step: Tremolo Arm Holder Maintenance for Stability
Picture	Edge Tremolo Parts Diagram Edge Lo-Pro Parts Diagram Arm Holder Nut and 10mm socket (tremolo removed) Example of usage (tremolo removed)
Tools Needed	10mm deep well socket and 1/4" socket driver (alternate is 10mm open end wrench) Medium Phillips-head screwdriver - for tremolo cover screws Large flat blade screwdriver 5/16" blade Duro brand "Lock-it" Loctite or similar liquid lockwasher
Procedure	Remove the tremolo arm from the holder Remove the rear tremolo cover by unscrewing the six rear tremolo cover screws with a Phillips head screwdriver. Loosen the Arm Holder Nut using a 10mm deep well socket. Tighten the Arm Holder using a large flat blade screwdriver with caution Hold the Arm Holder with the flat blade screwdriver and simultaneously tighten the Arm Holder Nut with the 10mm socket driver. Snug very tight Insert the tremolo arm in the arm holder socket If the Arm Holder does not stay tight repeat the process by loosening the Arm Holder Nut and applying Loc-Tite (blue grade) or another nut fastener to keep the nut tight but yet removable. Reinstall the tremolo rear cover and screws
Reference	Ibanez Arm Holder Part#: 2LE2-13C - Arm Holder Chrome (JEM10) 2LE2-13G - Arm Holder Gold (JEM7VWH) 2LE2-13K - Arm Holder Cosmo Black (all other JEM/UVs) 2LE2-14 - Arm Holder Nut 2LE2-15 - Arm Holder Spring

Summary
The Tremolo Arm Holder is an inexpensive piece that you should tighten periodically and replace every few years. It is one of the few parts of the tremolo that takes wear and fortunately it is easily replaced. When setup right and nice and tight, it will allow the tremolo to be your friend and not your enemy.

Tremolo Blocking for Detuning

JEM owners (and all guitars with a floating tremolo) are left out in the cold if they want to quickly detune their guitar a 1/2 step or to Drop-D. Unfortunately, due to the floating bridge there is no solution to this that allows the tremolo to remain fully functional.

One method to allow alternate tuning is to block the tremolo bridge to lock out all movement. The idea is to insert a small wooden block between the bridge and body in the tremolo cavity to prevent the tremolo from moving, thus when you detune the tremolo angle will not shift or cause troubles as it does when floating. This method is described below.

Another method is to block the tremolo to prevent it from pulling sharp, while still allowing for it to drop. In my opinion this tremolo setup renders the tremolo completely useless... stiff,, klunky and noisy if the bridge is snapped back to neutral. I do not recommend this setup, nor will I expand upon how to do it.

Step By Step:
Picture	Edge Tremolo Parts Diagram Edge Lo-Pro Parts Diagram Tremolo lockout block insert point Tremolo lockout block installed
Tools Needed	3 mm Allen wrench - for locking nut Medium Phillips-head screwdriver - for tremolo cover screws Med/Large Phillips-head screwdriver - for tremolo claw springs
Procedure	Loosen the three bolts for the locking nut Remove the tremolo cover by unscrewing the six screws Insert a wooden block where pictured between the tremolo block and the bridge side of the tremolo cavity (on the opposite side of the block as the springs) Approximate size of the wooden block is: 0.5 in. (12.5mm) thick x 1.5 in. (40mm) width x 1.0" (25mm) height Make sure you keep the tremolo angle similar to the original setting. Use electrical tape to thicken the block or simply sand the block thinner. Remove the middle tremolo spring from the claw to let the tremolo sit on the block (see picture/example). Alternately you can loosen the tremolo claw screws one turn each to let the tremolo block rest on the wooden tremolo lockout block
Reference	Modify the wooden lockout block's thickness to keep the tremolo angle constant

Summary
JEM/UV guitars due to their floating bridge cannot easily be detuned or alternately tuned. A wooden tremolo lockout block can be made to insert between the tremolo and body in the tremolo cavity that totally locks tremolo movement to allow for alternate tunings. For those who require various tunings with one guitar, this is the best solution that can be easily removed.

Lo-TRS II - Removing unwanted sloppy arm play (user submitted)

JEM7 owners have the luxury of having the best locking tremolo ever made equipped with their guitars (Edge and Lo-Pro Edge). Unfortunately Ibanez included the lesser Lo-TRS II on the 555 series guitars (in addition to all Korean made RGs, S guitars, etc.). Luckily most of the setup in regard to the Edge is similar to the Lo-TRS II, however one notable difference is the insertion point of the tremolo arm.

Billy Ciervo submits the following info.

"I have found that the major flaw with the Lo-TRS II (along with the Jackson 580LP & other tremolos of this design) is the tremolo arm and the "Arm Holder" (the tube it fits in) have a very small amount of play in them. Also the ring on the bar which the screw cup pushes down on gradually moves down the bar slightly not allowing the bar to be fully inserted. This causes the tremolo to make klunking noises, unsmoothness, and limpness. I've found after reading the Edge tremolo section in the TECH/SETUP section putting a medium to thick coat of nail polish (Sally Hansen Hard As Nails preferably GREEN) at the flat bottom of the arm [where it tapers and inserts into the holder]. Also [put the nail polish] at the bottom of the ring where it meets the arm holder tube making it harder to slide down and a very thin brush stroke from the ring to about 1/4 inch form the bottom of the bar. This will tighten the bar up to allow Vai type tremolo techniques (flutter as good as For The Love Of God 3 min 35 sec or Blue Powder 4 min 04 sec). As you said in your article too much polish and the bar will be tight but it will wear in for better feel. This makes the JEM 555 not as bad since it does have a nice body, neck, and pickups but I won't mention that half vine inlay. An excellent guitar for someone that can't afford a real JEM.

Step By Step: Tremolo Arm Holder Maintenance for Stability
Picture	Lo-Pro TRS II Parts Diagram
Tools Needed	Nail Polish - Sally Hansen Hard As Nails preferably GREEN!
Procedure	Remove tremolo arm from TRS Brush a medium to thick coat of nail polish: At the flat bottom part of the arm where it tapers and inserts into the "Arm Holder. At the bottom of the ring where it meets the arm holder tube making it harder to slide the mounting screw/ring down Brush a light, very thin stroke of nail polish from the ring to about 1/4 inch form the bottom of the bar to tighten up it's insertion point Let the polish dry for several hours or overnight
Reference	none

Summary
With proper setup the 555 can perform quite well. I suggest any 555 owner read through the Tech section to get their guitar playing it's best. The sloppy/loose tremolo arm is a major complaint of 555 owners that appears to have a cure.

Tremolo Problems - Why Can't I Stay In-tune?

The tremolo on a JEM/UV guitar is subject to daily wear and tear. With some minimal maintenance and repair your tremolo should always stay 100% in tune. If you have a tremolo that does not stay 100% in tune (when being used) read on for details on how to get it working perfect again. Remember that the guitar can have several things wrong with it so go through the checklist below to get your tremolo working perfect.

Reasons why a Tremolo will not stay in tune (from easy cure to the most difficult):

1. Strings are old, kinked or not properly stretched
   • Fix - replace strings with new ones (preferably 009-042) and let them sit for 2 days without locking the nut. Locking the nut prematurely causes uneven string tension and wear.
     ->
2. Tremolo post stud not locked down - Set screw not tight, thus studs rock a bit.
   • Fix - tighten the tremolo lock down set screw with 1.5 mm allen wrench. (see Tremolo Bridge Height for details)
     ->
3. Tremolo angle setup wrong - This causes extra pressure on the springs and tremolo posts.
   • Fix - setup the tremolo angle (see Tremolo Angle setup)
     ->
4. Nut pressure pads defective or not fully tightened - This allows strings to catch at the nut and thus pull sharp or flat with the changing string tension and thus go out of tune.
   • Fix - tighten the 3 pressure pads with an allen wrench. Check the pads for wear and replace them if necessary
     ->
5. Nut loose on the neck - This allows the nut to move slightly with the changing string tension and thus go out of tune.
   • Fix - tighten the 2 bolts behind the nut to make sure it does not shift (see details on Nut Height adjustment)
     ->
6. Heel joint screws loose - This allows the neck to move slightly with the changing string tension and thus go out of tune.
   • Fix - tighten the 4 bolts at the heel joint with a philips to make sure the neck does not shift
     ->
7. Tremolo pivot not sitting correctly on the stud - Don't laugh, I've got used JEMs from dealers setup this way. The pivot point is on the stud or threads, not the pivot point allowing for horrible action and tuning.
   • Detune minimally to loosen string tension. Pull the tremolo away from the headstock toward the input jack side of the guitar), rocking the tremolo onto the posts knife edge. Visualize that the tremolo knife edge sits in the tremolo post cutaway. If need be, remove the tremolo, inspect & reinsert.
     ->
8. Tremolo post studs worn at the pivot point - If the pivot point is worn the tremolo will not float. Note - if your tremolo is erratic this is a sure fire sign that you need new posts. Does it lose it's "neutral position" often with subtle trem movements? For example when depress bar slightly it stays slightly flat, then when you flutter the bar it goes in-tune again. Basically it works fine one minute, then out of tune the next, then back in tune when you use the bar. If this occurs you need new trem studs. New studs will make the unit play like new. Highly recommended for ALL used JEM/UVs. You won't believe the difference. Catch... $25/pair from Ibanez.
   • Fix - Replace the two tremolo studs. These should be changed every year if used daily. It will dramatically improve your tremolo stability. Temp Fix - rotate the stud 1/3 to get a fresh knife edge while the replacements are on order!
     ->
9. Tremolo base knife edge worn or burred at the pivot point - This is not common on Edge tremolos, but is very common on original Floyd Rose tremolos due to a defect in their design. Interestingly Ibanez improved upon a major flaw thus reducing this problem with the Edge.
   • Fix - Further explanation later but briefly you need to file the knife edge smooth. You can use a thin fine metal file. Remove the tremolo and arm holder. File the knife edge by holding the file at a slight angle. File in one direction from the fine tuner side of the pivot point toward the front of the bridge. Repeat for the top and bottom of the right and left pivot point.
     ->
10. Tremolo stud insert loose on the body - The insert rocks with trem movement, preventing the neutral point from being found. This is a major repair and would be necessary after only serious abuse of a guitar (see Vai's Green Meanie!)
    • Fix - Professional body repair and reinsertion of the tremolo stud inserts.
      

Notes regarding 2003 Model Edge Pro and Edge Pro-II - the revamped tremolos have a revamped anchor/stud that does not accomidate the lock-down set screw on each post/stud, since the bottom of the anchor is hollow and the stud lacks the set screw :-(. As discussed on the forum, the quickest workaround is to remove the trem and stud. Then screw a set screw (4-8mm depth, 1.25 pitch set screw) into each anchor - the set screw becomes the "bottom" for which the stud/post can anchor to. You can then, with trial and error, get the insert at the correct depth to allow the stud to anchor to it. It would be easiest if you purchased two new older 2LE2B locking stud/posts and use their set screw to anchor to the newly inserted bottom.

Summary
With proper setup a guitar with Edge, Lo-Pro Edge, Lo TRS-II or original Floyd Rose should stay in tune great. Make sure you have fresh strings and they are stretched adequately prior to locking the nut. So much for the whammy bashers.

I've Removed All the Strings - HELP!

JEM/UV owners (and all guitars with a floating tremolo) are in a real bind if they remove all strings simultaneously. This is because once you remove 2 or more strings you will lose the ability to find the "floating" position of the tremolo. It will be a futile effort and test of your patience to get it back to normal.

Fortunately there is hope. What you need to do is temporarily block the tremolo in a neutral position, then restring the guitar, until the tremolo is floating again. Once leveled out the tremolo angle can be set again. Check the restringing tech section for more details. It's a lifesaver.

Step By Step:
Picture	Correct Tremolo Angle: Lo-Pro Edge Correct Tremolo Angle: Edge Tremolo lockout block installed
Tools Needed	Medium Phillips-head screwdriver - for tremolo cover screws Med/Large Phillips-head screwdriver - for tremolo claw springs
Procedure	Remove the tremolo cover by unscrewing the six screws If you have not done so, put a rag or sponge under fine tuners of the tremolo (on the front side of the body) to prevent the tremolo from bottoming out against the body causing damage. This will also and to hold the tremolo on the posts. Insert a wooden block (or similar non-damaging shim) where pictured between the tremolo block and the bridge side of the tremolo cavity (on the opposite side of the block as the springs). Be careful to keep the tremolo knife edges on the posts. This will give you the proper tremolo angle easily. Approximate size of the wooden block is: 0.5 in. (12.5mm) thick x 1.5 in. (40mm) width x 1.0" (25mm) height Make sure you keep the tremolo angle similar to the original setting. Use electrical tape to thicken the block or simply sand the block thinner. If anything, keep the angle flat, so the string tension will pull the block out and set the angle just perfect Restring the guitar and tune to pitch. The sponge/rag should slip out and later the block should be removed with ease. Let set for 30 minutes. Retune to pitch and adjust the tremolo angle as necessary. Old strings cause increased string tension, thus the angle might be off. Reinstall the tremolo cover and screws
Reference	Modify the wooden lockout block's thickness to keep the tremolo angle normal or slightly flat. Make sure it's easy to remove once tuned to pitch

Summary
JEM/UV guitars due to their floating bridge are a nightmare if all strings are removed simultaneously. The trick to restoring it's tuning and tremolo angle is to temporarily block the bridge, tune to pitch then remove the block. A real time saver.

Tremolo Problems - Using thicker gauge strings with the floating tremolo?

The JEM/UV is setup from the factory for 009-042 (053 low-B). If you use thicker gauge strings, you will have to adjust the bridge to counteract the increased string tension from the thicker strings. If you run out of room to tighten the claw springs you should try replacing the tremolo springs, if they are worn. In severe circumstances you will have to add an extra tremolo claw spring or two. Shown below is a sample using 5 tremolo claw springs.

Click here for photo of 5 tremolo springs in use.

Strap Lock / Buttons are Loose or not Secured - Tightening them

Sometimes the strap lock buttons will become loose where they feel like they can pull out of the soft Basswood body of a JEM or UV. If a guitar is used or had DiMarzio or other straplocks installed, the removal and insertion of new screws can strip the wood further. A fix is pretty simple:

You have 2 options for a fix:

Easy (temporary) fix: Remove the strap buttons & screws (Phillips screwdriver required). Fill the straplock hole with cut toothpicks or wood shavings. With Toothpicks cut them flat to the depth of the body's hole - not sticking out. Fill the cavity with Elmers Wood Glue (or other carpentry glue). Use just a bit of glue to keep the toothpick from moving. Use common sense here. Let dry for an hour. Screw in the strap button with the same screw until snug. Do not overtighten. The added wood material is usually enough to provide for a very snug fit. If it loosens just do it again!

Detailed (permanent) fix: Remove the strap buttons & screws (Phillips screwdriver required).

Mix the Epoxy (5-min epoxy will work) using a popsicle stick or toothpick. Carefully put a LITTLE bit of epoxy in to fill the hole. If you plug it totally you'll have to redrill the hole (see below), so you might want to the hole visable. Let dry for an hour or overnight. Using a small drill bit, redrill a pilot hole (1/16" drill bit or smaller), then drill a larger hole which is 1/8" or so, if necessary, just smaller than the Ibanez, DiMarzio or Schaller strap button screws. The more you fill the body with epoxy, the more careful you will want to drill the pilot holes so you don't split the wood. Screw in the strap button with the same screw until snug. Do not overtighten. Very easy just use caution with the epoxy not to make a mess. This will hold forever.

Ibanez USRG Tension-Free Neck Setup

The following info is from a handout supplied with the Ibanez USRG and USATK instruments.

Tension Free Neck - Ibanez USRG and USATK series instruments are equipped with a Tension-Free Neck. The purpose of the neck is to relieve all the tension on the neck that a standard truss rod will cause. Basically a standard truss rod works by putting pressure against the fretboard. The tension free neck eliminates a standard truss rod by using a steel rod that is connected at the guitars heel and also at the headstock. This allows the neck and fretboard to float free of the rod.

* Note: Your neck is preset at the factory by trained technicians, improper adjustment may damage the neck and void your Warranty. The following adjustment should only be performed by a professional repairman.

Step By Step:
Picture	coming soon
Tools Needed	1/16" Allen wrench - for trussrod pivot pin (at 17th fret on side of fretboard) 5/32" Allen wrench - for neck adjustment (at heel joint)
Procedure	Note: The pivot pin on the side of the neck at the 17th fret must be securely seated before any adjustment is made. Failure to do so will cause damage to your guitar and could void the warranty. The pin is factory set and should not be removed. To determine if the pin is properly seated, place a 1/16" Allen wrench in the pin and tighten until the pin stops and is tight. This will lock the pin in place. Locate the hole cover on the back of the guitar at the neck mounting screws Remove the metal cover (this cover is pressed in and can easily be removed). Insert a 5/32" Allen wrench into the hole and access adjustment screw. Turning the adjustment screw counter clockwise will place a backbow in the neck. Turning the adjustment screw clockwise will warp or place relief in the neck. Important: You will notice a neutral position between the two settings where the adjustment screw is loose. It is not advisable to leave the screw in the neutral position because the neck will have no support and the rod could damage the neck.
Reference	see trussrod adjustment article for details on determining proper neck bow or relief. Bunker Guitar setup/reference page

Summary
The Ibanez USRG Guitars have a trussrod, along with all other JEM/UVs and other Ibanez guitars. The USRGs, however, have a tension-free neck with a different type of trussrod that adjusts differently. Adjusting the USRG Neck is simple, if you are skilled in the principles in neck bow and relief. If in doubt, print these instructions and let a guitar tech perform the adjustments.

Neck Pocket Alignment of the Strings on the Fretboard (in relation to the bridge)

When you examine your guitar looking at the fretboard, the edge of the high/low E-strings should be the same distance off the edge of the fretboard (fret edge). It is possible that one string will come a bit closer to the edge of the fretboard, if the guitar is not setup properly. To the casual observer, it could appear that the bridge is not centered properly, however that is rare. The procedure below will show you how to correct this setup, if possible. It allows you to correctly position the neck with the neck pocket, to remove any torqueing or misallignment of the neck.

Step By Step:
Picture	N/A
Tools Needed	Medium/large Philips/hex screwdriver
Procedure	First make sure the NUT is centered to the fretboard. If necessary, loosen the nut, behind the neck (or under the pressure pads) and center it to the neck. Second, make sure the tremolo is properly set on the posts, and that only the tremolo knife edges contact the post. Make sure the trem is not rubbing or installed wrong. If the above is true, now you can fix the problem. Keeping the guitar tuned loosen the 4 neck screws 1/4-1/2 turn each. With the guitar face down with thte neck to your left (looking at the neck joint & rear body), you will use your left hand to move the neck up or down in the pocket slightly, to eliminate the problem and get the strings lined up perfectly. It helps to have an extra set of hands (ie. helper) to tighten the neck while you hold it in the correct position. Alternately you could stand the guitar body on edge (sitting on the lower horn & lower body), holding it firmly into position, and use gentle leverage to position the neck (pull up to ceiling or push down to floor) as you set and then tighten the neck screws. This is alot easier to do than to explain here! Not exactly a rocket science! Retighten the screws front-back-front-back to get even tension. If the pocket is cut right and stable, it should hold. NOTE - It is a rarity the neck, body or trem posts are drilled incorrectly. If that is the case, the guitar will need to be professionally repaired.
Reference	N/A

Summary
The neck pocket is usually cut tight, with little clearance or play. Any bolt-on neck is subject to shifting and this allows you to keep it setup to perfection, with little hassle.